MODHERA SUN TEMPLE

The 'remains' of last night sure gave us some much needed energy. We decided to proceed towards Modhera expecting to come across some restaurant enroute. Patan-Chanasma-Modhera is the route we took. We did not find one proper "restaurant" enroute. At site, there is a small stall catering to the ‘basics’ like wafers, icecreams/candy bars, mineral water and the likes. There is a small outlet for “adult” food like gota, bhajiya and fafda (typical Gujarat recipes) right next to the entrance. Go there only if you can keep your cool against the very rude behavior of the stall operator. However, the hot Methi-gota they offered were fairly palatable. With one more dose of fuel landing into our bowels, we were again as good as new to scour the next site.

Modhera is famous for the Sun Temple / Surya Mandir. The Modhera Sun Temple, built in 1024 AD by King Rushabh Bhimdev I of the Solanki dynasty. Solankis were Suryavanshi (Vansh/descendants of Sun). The Surya mandir is so designed that the first rays of Sun fall on the Surya idol.

The temple is in partial ruins after having been plundered by Allauddin Khilji.

I came across a very interesting story mentioned in Wikepedia about the mythological status of Modhera. I am attaching an extract of the same here.

“According to the Skanda Purana and Brahma Purana, the areas near Modhera were known during ancient days as Dharmaranya (literally meaning the forest of righteousness). According to these Puranas, Lord Ram, after defeating Ravana, asked sage Vasistha to show him a place of pilgrimage where he could go and purify himself from the sin of Brahma-hatya (the sin of killing a Brahmin, because Ravana was a Brahmin by birth). Sage Vasistha showed him Dharmaranya, which was near the modern town of Modhera. In the Dharmaranya, he settled at a village Modherak and performed a yagna there. Thereafter he established a village and named it Sitapur. This village is about 15 km from Becharaji Modherak village and it subsequently came to be known as Modhera.”

Similar to the Rani ki vav complex, here also we find a well maintained garden with good amount of trees providing the much needed green cover. Ensconced in an undulating landscape of green foliage, the temple structure strictly follows and implements the elements of "Vastu-Shastra".

Suryakund or Ramkund

From a distance, all we see is a non-descript routine structure of an ancient temple. But as you near the core area, a big “kund” opens up before your eyes.

Small temples along the tank stairs

Shiv Tanda

The Suryakund or the Ramkund is a rectangular water tank with steps leading to the water. 108 small temples of various deities line the steps of the tank.108 represents the number of beads in the Hindu rosary. Three sides have a main shrine each of Vishnu, Shiv performing Tandav nrutya and Ganesh. The fourth side has the main temple.

Reflection in the tank water

There are four levels of descent with "Sine" wave shaped stairs down to the bottom of the tank.



 









There may have been several "Torans" (arched canopies) earlier. However, as the tradition goes, after a war, the victorious king breaks the arch of the "Toran" of the defeated king. Toran represents the crown. A broken Toran denotes defeat. There are two Torans here, albeit with broken archs.

Toran with broken arch

Toran with broken arch at entrance to the main 'Sabha Mandap'

 
Modhera, incidently is the only temple which has a 'Kund' seamlessly connected to the main structure, thus emphasizing the dichotomy of the two elements of nature, Fire & Water. The kund and the entrance passageway face east in an aura of welcome to the tantalizing rays of the sun, and the entire structure floats on a plinth resembling a flowering lotus as an ablution to the sun god.

The temple was constructed by 'Silavats'. They were stone idol makers. 'Silavats' were expert engineers, however, never had any skill of theirs documented. They verbally passed on their knowledge and skill down the generations. The temple complex is a marvel in planning and engineering. It clearly mirrors their skill understanding and expertise in the principals of Vastu-Shastra and astronomy. 
The whole complex is divided into Sabha Mandap (Assembly hall), Antral (Transition section), Rang Mandap (Dance hall) and the Garbhagruha (Santum Sanctorum). 

The Sabha Mandap, as the name suggests, was the place for religious gatherings & conferences. Open from all sides with 52 ornately carved pillars representing the number of weeks in a year. Actuallly, every inch including the pillars are intricately carved with incidences from the Ramayan, Mahabharat and Krishna lila. There are various aspects of our life which have been incorporated in the carvings on various parts of the temple. The cycle of birth, life, death and rebirth are depicted on the various facades of the temple. 

As we go around the temple, on the outer wall of the Guda Mandap, we see 12 different forms of "Aaditya" (Sun). The different forms of Aaditya represent the 12 months of the year. There are big idols of Lord Vishwakarma, Vishnu, Varundev, Agnidev, Ganesh, Mata Saraswati and also scenes depicting Samudramanthan.

Further ahead from the Sabha Mandap, we proceed towards the Antaral and into the Guda Mandap/Garbhagruha/Sanctum Sanctorum. In the morning, when the sun rises, the first rays fall on the place where the main idol of the Sun god was installed. Presently the area is closed to public as there is a deep pit just inside the door. 

There are two school of thoughts which debate on the type of idol of Sun god that existed prior to outside marauders plundered the site. One says that the idol was as shown in the adjoining pic. The other says that the idol consisted of Sun god seated in a seven horse chariot with Sarathi Arun. The entire idol was made of gold and was placed on a pit which was 15 ft. deep and filled with gold coins. The pit is present today, though.

Thus ends our one more successful trip to one more masterpiece as an ode and to exalt the efforts of the Solanki rulers during which, Gujarat, the land we belong to, prospered.